Wednesday, February 18, 2009

Pretty Please

I've been working on "Pretty Please!" (or sit up) with Pilot for about a week. My criteria is that her butt must remain sitting on the floor while her front paws are quiet in the air in front of her. I want to teach her this so I can help to strengthen her abdonimal muscles and so that she has greater body awareness and proprioception for agility.

I took her to Dr. Lynda Wells last week. Lynda is a local holistic veterinarian who does musculoskeletal adjustments (chiropractic in the human world) and accupuncture. She found that Pilot's thorasic vertebrae were out of alignment and did an adjustment.

Pilot does not seem to have a great awareness of her body or pain when she is playing ball. She skids into things, slips and jumps in some pretty odd ways when she is playing. I'm thinking if we can condition her muscles to protect her spine and make her more aware of her body in time and space (proprioception) then we might be able to avoid injury in the future.

We're doing about 10 reps 2 times a day. I started with a lure 2" from her nose 5 times and then I faded the lure using my fingers pointed up pinching as if I had a lure in them. I need to have a hand signal that doesn't look so much like sit that she can make the distinction. I am using all my fingers pinched together, palm upraised and moving upwards. When she sat up I marked the best try with a clicker or with a verbal bridge and then fed her the reward.

The first day of sit up practice, I just let her experiment with raising up a four or five times. Then I raised my criteria to sit instead of stand up on her back feet. The second and third day she started to develop more of an awareness of the sit position and was more reliable. We took a break on the weekend (work days at the field). The next two days she was able to sit up reliably with my hand close to her face. I also added the verbal "Pretty Please". She is raising up on back feet much less, and seems to have better ability to balance. Today she sat, balanced pretty well and I was able to raise my hand signal farther away from her face. The next step will be practice to tone her muscles by holding the position longer, raising my hand so I can do it from a standing position and eventually have her do it on a verbal.

I'm also thinking this exercise may help her raise her frustration tolerance because she will need to focus for longer periods of time as we add duration and distractions.

Once a week I work with her sister, Remi, while she is visiting. Her progress is good, but more practice definately helps.

If you do this at home, check with your vet to make sure your dog's knees and hips are capable before you start. Different body types may not be able to do "Pretty Please" comfortably. Every dog is an individual and you should proceed at their pace. Think positive - minimize corrections as much as possible - "no", "wrong" and "oops" type words will not help as much as telling the dog what you want them to do. The first day or so you can help your dog allowing them to rest their paws on your arm for balance.
It is fun to see Pilot gain more control of her body on a daily basis. I imagine a couple of weeks before we go to the next big exercise - deep knee bends to strengthen her rear end (tune in for more details).

Monday, February 16, 2009

How much physical and mental exercise does my dog really need?

We get asked this question all of the time. The amount of physical and mental exercise a dog needs varies by breed and age. Some dogs are difficult to tire no matter how long you walk! The rule of thumb is that all dogs should receive at least 60 minutes per day of physical exercise and 15 minutes of training to be happy, well-adjusted dogs. Physical exercise releases "happy chemicals" in human and dog brains that are helpful in keeping us well adjusted and balanced. We usually pay attention to physical exercise and ignore mental stimulation for our pet, mental stimulation is a critical component of exercise.

Lack of mental stimulation can lead to boredom, and boredom can lead to behavioral issues and destructiveness like barking, chewing the furniture and digging up the garden. Imagine if you had to sit in an empty room, alone, all day long with nothing to read, no computer, no television and no games. Dogs get bored just like people.

Provided your dog is getting two or three good walks a day, a game or two of fetch, or a trip to the dog park; focus more on adding mental stimulation to your dog's daily routine.

Mental stimulation of dogs is easy and fun. Here are a few helpful hints to help get you started:
Allow your dog plenty of time to sniff on your walks. It is like getting the news is for us. Using their noses and processing the information is good mental stimulation.

Provide your dog with toys that make them think, like a Kong toys stuffed with food (see our website for recipes), or one of the many varieties of treat dispensing puzzle balls available at your local pet supply store or the internet (look for the Buster Cube, Giggle and Peek Treat Ball, Dog Smart Puzzle Toys, Tug-a-Jug, Kibble Nibble, Intellibone, Hide-A-Squirrel/Bird/Bee.)

Rotate your dog's toys. Continuous access makes toys lose their special value.

Play Treasure Hunt. Confine your dog while setting up this game. Take tiny treats and hide them everywhere - under the coffee table, on a shelf of the bookcase, etc. Now release your dog and say, "Find it!" At first, stand near the places where you have hidden the tidbits, then once he has the idea move farther away and let your dog do the work to sniff them out. Then sit back and watch the fun.

Try dog sports such as agility, freestyle, tracking, flyball, dock diving, lure coursing and rally obedience Training can help build confidence and tire a dog both mentally. It can also help to improve your dog's focus and attention.

You've probably heard the saying, "A good dog is a tired dog". Balance both physical exercise and mental stimulation to keep your dog busy, happy, non-destructive and a good companion.

Dog Greetings

Here are a few guidelines for greeting dogs:

Always ask before petting someone else's dog

Extend the back of your hand for sniffing before petting someone else's dog.

Always ask before letting your dog approach another dog. Not all dogs like being approached by other dogs.

Be sure to have control of your dog at all times.

Keep your dog on a short leash in crowds.

Always approach a dog from the front

Never reach into a dog's crate or exercise pen unles the dog is your dog.

If a dog is guarding its crate, exercise pen or car by growling or barking, avert your eyes and move away from the dog to help ease their stress.

Doggie Smell Spray

Yard Clean Up Tonic - For a sweet smelling yard

1 cup coffee
1/2 cup anti-septic mouthwash
1 Tablespoon liquid dish soap
4 drops tobasco sauce
10 gallons of water
Mix in a bucket and fill hand sprayers or put the mixed tonic in a hose end spayer and wash down the entire yard (lawn, plants and shrubs, sidewalks, lawn furniture, etc.)

Rainy Day Games

Rainy Day Dog Games

If you and your dog have cabin fever, here are some suggestions to take the edge off:

1) Work on your sit stay add duration first, when that is reliable at least 80% of the time add distractions and last add distance like household members talking, tv going, doorbells ringing. Try not to get greedy and do too much, remember to set your dog up for success. Always go back to your dog to reward them for the stay. Only call them to you when you have worked on stay for several repetitions prior. For more information on relaxation: Google Karen Overall Relaxation Protocol.

2) Invite friends over to help proof your sit at the door. Keep greetings calm and collected by keeping your dog on leash. If this is too hard then practice sits at the door before you invite the company over.

3) Play tug-drop-sit-tug-drop-sit, etc. Tug is a nice workout for many dogs, Drop and Sit add an impulse control element to the game.

4) Play fetch with a sit for impulse control before each throw. Sit makes good things happen.

5) Have a treasure hunt, hide treats or toys and have your dog find them.

6) Play hide and seek - the fewer clues you give the more challenging for the dog. Start with lots of clues like a beep noise then fade them out.

7) Train your dog to pick up their toys by name and then drop them in a basket.

8) Blow bubbles - some dogs like to catch them. There are special bubbles made for dogs so they do not get digestive problems.

9) Give your dog a Kong or another intelligent challenge toy with dog food in it. The new Nina Ottosson puzzles for dogs are mentally challenging and fun.

10) Do Doga (doggy yoga) with your dog. Downward facing dog, upward paw and cobra pose are just a few of the exercises you can do.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d6rO6ck_N5U
http://www.expertvillage.com/video/12213_downward-facing-dog-doga.htm

11) Play Crate Games (see www.livingwithdogs.us/books/). Have your dog race to his crate for a treat then release and start over.

12) Put your rain gear on and take your dog for a vigorous walk.

Friday, February 13, 2009

Pizza for Dogs


I bought a Sweedish Nina Ottosson game for dogs called Dog Magic. We call it the pizza game because it is round, flat, red and about the size of a small pizza. The dogs have to remove the 9 bone shaped cups under which are hidden treats or nothing. I put one treat under each cup and the dogs spent less than 10 minutes getting the treats out.

The second time we played, we only put treats under one bone. I did some experiments. As soon as Tempe put her foot on the wrong bone I removed the game for about 10 seconds. The third time she went right to the correct one and got the treats out. With Pilot I said "Oops!" everytime she got the wrong bone and pulled the game away for 5 seconds. In both Tempe and Pilot their intensity went up (hard fast gulping of the treats), their tails went down and ears back slightly. Then I allowed them to get the treats without moving the game away. They picked the right bone the first time with tails up with a softer, slower mouthing to get the treats.

Do negative punishment (taking the game and the opportunity for reinforcement away) and positive punishment ("Oops!") cause stress in the learning animal? My small experiment convinces me that they do. Can I train in a stressless environment? I can minimize the use of the negative marker to almost nothing, but the delivery of reward neccesitates times when there is no reward earned. Not delivering a reward differs slightly from delivering and then taking it away. It gives one great pause to think the subtle use punitive tools in training and how they can be minimized. My goal is a confident, happy dog who excels in training.